

After the crackers go quiet on Sunday the 8th, the hills still have one more festival of lights up their sleeve. Igas Bagwal falls on Friday, 20 November this year, on Kartik Shukla Ekadashi, the same day as Devuthani Ekadashi. It's a state public holiday too, so you're looking at a lovely long weekend from 20 to 22 November.
The name gives you a clue. Igas is the Garhwali word for Ekadashi, and Bagwal means a festival of lights. Ask why the hills celebrate later, though, and every family has its own favourite story:
The news arrived late. Word of Lord Ram's return to Ayodhya took 11 days to reach the mountain villages, so that's when they lit their lamps.
A hero came home. Garhwal's legendary warrior Madho Singh Bhandari was away fighting on the Tibet border at Diwali. When he returned victorious to his village, Maleth, about 11 days later, his people lit their lamps to welcome him.
Bhim's Diwali. In some parts of Garhwal, the day is fondly called Bhim Diwali.
So, which version does your family tell?
Bhailo, pakodi and dhol-damau
The star of Igas is the bhailo. Torches of resin-rich chheel (pine) are tied with grass rope, lit and swung in big fiery circles while everyone dances to the dhol and damau. In the villages, the cattle get pampered too, with a bath, oiled horns, fresh garlands and a special meal.
And the food? Think urad dal pakodi, swale, puris and jaggery sweets. Every valley swears its recipe is the best, so you may need to taste a few to decide.
These days Igas is a big Dehradun celebration as well. The Chief Minister's residence hosts an evening of bhailo and folk dances like Harul, Jhumelo, Chanchari, Thadiya and Jagar. Community groups join in too: last year the Garhwal Mahila Sabha marked Igas at Shaheed Sthal with rows of diyas and folk dances.
Shop easy for Diwali. Paltan Bazaar, Moti Bazar and Hanuman Chowk are off-limits to cars, autos and loading vehicles from 11 am to 7 pm this festive season. Two-wheelers can still get in, but walking is the way to enjoy it.
Save a few diyas from the 8th to light again on Igas.
Cook something from the hills and share it with neighbours who've never tried it.
Watch for Igas events in Dehradun and Mussoorie, usually announced the week before.
Make it a homecoming. The long weekend is the perfect excuse for a trip up to the ancestral village.
Two Diwalis, twice the sweets. Not a bad deal, Doon!